Deqin to Lhasa

We stock up on supplies in Deqin and begin the journey to Tibet, admiring the breathtaking scenery along the way.

The road is unsurfaced and full of potholes. The Pajero has no problems with the road and within three hours, with our excitement building by the minute, we hit the highway. As we cross into Tibet, we reach a police checkpoint where the officers ask us for our passports and Tibet permits. Unfortunately, we have no such permits and are unable to buy one from the police.

Police escort us to the local school where we sit in the headmaster’s office (he’s the only one that can speak English with us). The headmaster informs us that we will have to travel back to Shangri-La to obtain the permits and pay for a tour guide and hire a jeep, a prohibitively expensive option. He then informs us that we will be escorted back to Deqin, free of charge and that we cannot stay in a hotel just out of the border. Jake and Baz are incredibly apologetic that we cannot continue with them to Lhasa and Baz gives us some cigarettes to ease the situation. Since we haven’t eaten in more than eight hours, we ask for some food and are cooked a dinner prior to our departure.

We make the drive back in total darkness and are very nervous as the road is in such terrible condition. Along the way, we chain smoke half a pack each, contemplating our options. We had expected to be able to spend some time within Tibet, however are happy to be able to spend time in Deqin.

On the plus side, the police and headmaster were incredibly friendly and apologetic throughout the ordeal and at no point made us feel uncomfortable or threatened.

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