Baiyi to Lhasa

Having woken up at four in the morning to make my getaway, I start walking out of Baiyi towards Lhasa. Along the way, I pass a row of several bordellos, each with a couch, a closed room and a girl sitting inside looking bored. As I walk past, they each walk out and in turn say I love you and motion for me to come in. Mama raised me better than that so I wave and continue the walk.

After a couple of hours walk, past more savage dogs, I’m well outside the town and sit on the side of the road eating a peanut breakfast while I wait for a lift. The first non-taxi I see stops for me and after some negotiation on price, agrees to take me to Lhasa.

Ten minutes into the drive, there’s a police checkpoint and it’s manned. I panic a little, but before I can begin to worry, the driver has shown his license to the officer and we’re allowed to pass.

The scenery along the way is amazing.

I’m at a loss for words trying to describe the beauty that is Tibet.

One more police checkpoint and over a bridge with soldiers stationed at both ends and I’m finally within Lhasa. I know it’s safe to be in Lhasa without disguise since tourists can walk around without guides here. After days of eating Tsomba, biscuits and nuts, all I want is a big fat greasy burger.

I walk around for a while unsuccessful and am about to give up when an English speaking Tibetan approaches me. I tell him I’m looking for a McDonald’s, only to find there isn’t one. There is however a Dico’s and the guy escorts me to a bus stop, tells the girl to let me off at the right stop and bids me farewell.

Mmm, the sweet taste of success.

I meet some expats living in Lhasa and they tell me I’m the first white person they’d heard of coming in without a permit this year, though I highly doubt I am. I ask them for the locations of guesthouses, hostels or motels that don’t require PSB registration forms. They tell me of all the places they know, however they don’t know of any that don’t require registration.

The first guesthouse I go to, I tell them that I have a small problem, when I explain it to them, they tell me it’s a big problem and send me away. The second place is amazed to hear of my experience and tells me I can stay for one night then I will have to go. I have a shower and a shave and fall asleep exhausted.

Mission Milestone: Cross into Tibet and Infiltrate Lhasa – Accomplished.