Lhaze

While in Shigatse, I try and find a tour group that I can join to get past the checkpoints to Everest Base Camp. I’m unsuccessful the first night and contemplate staying another day to wait for a group.

I eventually decide against it since all the tour involves is driving to the base camp (which is expensive), spending the night there, then moving on.

Instead I opt for the cheap option which only involves one checkpoint. Heading to Lhaze, from Lhaze past the checkpoint, up a mountain where there’s a lookout spot.

I’ve been in Tibet solo the entire time and consider it cheating to join a group so I leave for Lhaze the following day.

Walking out of town, I’m joined by a monk (Gunga) who tells me that his master lama is going to India to see the Dalai Lama. I’m very happy for him and turns out we’re hitching together.

He tells me to sit down, we’re at a petrol station on the outskirts of town leading towards Lhaze, and that he’ll take care of it. He’s not as keen at stopping cars as I am and avoids all of the ones filled with Han Chinese and all trucks and is happy to talk to pass time.

I decide to help him out, get up and flag down the first vehicle that passes, a truck, much to Gunga’s dismay. He’s saying no, no while I’m saying Lhaze to the driver. Eventually Gunga talks to the man in Tibetan, smiles and says ok. We both hop in and he’s driven to his monastery while I’m driven to Lhaze.

Some of the colours between Shigatse and Lhaze.

The driver drops me off at a truck motel in Lhaze. I ask them about staying there, they turn me away, pointing to the tourist hotel.

I walk into the tourist hotel and am quoted 30 Yuan for a bed, not having any other options in town, or any negotiating leeway, I accept telling them I have no permit. I ask the owner how far until the police checkpoint, she says it’s two minutes. While eating dinner at their restaurant, they hand me the PSB registration form. I calmly tell them I’ll take care of it upstairs.

Before falling asleep, I run a reconnaissance mission to spot the PSB checkpoint but am unable to find it. I throw away the registration form and fall asleep knowing I need to be awake early in the morning to get past the PSB.