The Backdoor Entrance from Georgia to Abkhazia

I’m back in Zugdidi, I know there’s a marshrutka that crosses from Georgia into Abkhazia the following day at 14:00. Rather than show up unexpected, I decide to head there now to see what I can learn.

I show up to the address of the garage I was told about and ask the first two people I meet about the marshrutka to Abkhazia. Beso and Zaza (more on them later take me back to the stand for the marshrutka to Inguri to go over the bridge where I was just kicked out. Talk about frustrating!

I walk back to the garage where the marshrutka left from and walked around looking for some Abkhaz drivers. There’s a group of five of them. I approach them.

Me: Hello, I’m trying to get to Abkhazia.

Abkhaz 1: The marshrutka stand is over there (pointing to the Inguri marshrutka).

Me: They didn’t let me in, I’ve been told there’s a backdoor entrance (черный вход).

Abkhaz 1: Yeah, you just missed it, come back tomorrow at 14:00.

Me: Will the driver take me? I have a Russian passport.

Abkhaz 1: Yeah of course.

Abkhaz 2: No way.

The five Abkhaz break off into a discussion in Abkhaz.

Abkhaz 1: It shouldn’t be a problem, in fact we can take you now.

Me: For how much?

Abkhaz 1: 5,000 Rubles and we’ll get you to Sokhumi.

Me: That’s too expensive for me, I heard the marshrutka tomorrow is 1,500 Rubles.

Abkhaz 1: Yeah, look, come back tomorrow and we’ll give a heads up to the driver, he should take you, if he doesn’t we will.

Me: Thanks guys.

Abkhaz 1: In fact, if you shave and cut your hair, you’ll look just like one of us, no problems.

Me: I’ll think about it, see you all tomorrow.

I rejoin Beso and Zaza who have decided to give me a tour of Zugdidi. While walking to a hotel, Beso invites me to stay with him.

Zaza and I

Left to Right: Myself, Beso and Beso’s sister and her husband.

See what’s wrong with this picture?

I return to the marshrutka stand the following day at 11:00 to find the five Abkhaz drivers at the same spot. When they see me, they all break out in smiles.

Abkhaz 1: Vanya, our Russian friend, we are so happy to see you. You’re going to Abkhazia, we’ve talked it over with the driver he’ll take you across and get you on a bus to Sokhumi. For you it’ll be 2,000 Rubles because there could be difficulties taking a Russian across.

The soldiers that stop every marshrutka are Russian, not Abkhaz, we’re pretty sure they’ll let you in, just in case, bring some vodka, cigarettes or some money to help them let you in.

Me: That’s awesome you guys are the best.

Abkhaz 1: You should stay with my family in Sokhumi, they know you’re coming and will happily let you stay for the night.

Me: That’s great. *I’m in a state of euphoria before reality sinks in* I’m going to be in Abkhazia without a stamp, how can I cross into Russia?

Abkhaz 1: Hmm, that’s a problem.

Abkhaz 2: Don’t worry about it, here’s what you do, get to the border town and then find yourself an Armenian. They’re always crossing the border illegally, they’ll take you via backdoor entrance into Russia, no problems.

Me: Do you know how much it’ll cost?

Abkhaz 2: It can’t be more than $150-$200.

Abkhaz 1: Vanya, I’m very worried, if you get arrested for illegally crossing the border into Abkhazia you might have to spend some time in prison, maybe it’s not worth the risk.

Me: You think that’s possible?

Abkhaz 1: It’s unlikely, but why risk it, it would cost the same for you to catch a ferry from Poti to Sochi and cross into Abkhazia from there (illegal according to Georgia which claims Abkhazia is Georgian territory).

Me: I think you’re right. *Reality sinks in, my heart sinks* Thanks guys.

Abkhaz 1: You’re a good person Vanya, I hope you get to see our country, it’s an amazing and the people are so friendly.

Me: I do too, goodbye my friends.

I would like to say that I took the rational approach and avoided the backdoor entrance because of the risk, but in honesty, it was because of the high price to cross into Russia that I avoided it (though I thought it might be much cheaper if I got as far as the border).