I get onto the ferry, having bought the cheapest tickets and not bothering to upgrade from a seat to a cabin and quickly take a row of seats to sleep on.
The Erke, a ferry ship from Georgia to Russia, registered in Phnom Penh, Cambodia and owned and operated by Turks.
I walk around the ship and start talking with some of the passengers about my trip in Cambodia (the ship is registered in Cambodia). As others overhear my stories, a crowd forms. Everyone is enthralled especially when I tell them about my Abkhazia attempt.
One of the guys listening, Koba, a Georgian by ethnicity, born and raised in Russia starts telling me about his businesses and his travels, we become friends pretty soon and eventually he offers a lift with him to Rostov (half of the way from Sochi to Moscow).
At one point in our conversation, an Azeri man comes up to us.
Azeri: Sorry to interrupt your conversation, but uh, I have six bottles of Georgian wine with me, do you think they’ll let me into Russia or will I have to pay a fine?
Koba: My friend, I have with me 130 litres of Cha Cha (Georgian grape moonshine) and a case of wine, I think you’ll be fine.
*the man leaves satisfied*
Me: Was that true?
Koba: Yeah, I’ve also got an antique painting that you can’t export form Georgia, good luck finding it though.
Me: How do you plan on getting past the customs in Russia?
Koba: I know a Georgian guy at the customs, pay him a bit of money and there’s no problems.
The sun rises as we arrive at Sochi.
I pass through immigration, am told that there’s no way I’ll be let out of Russia with my passport in the state it’s in (the photo page cover has almost completely come off). After being let out, I go for a much overdue swim in the Black Sea and wait for my friend Koba to have his car cleared by customs.
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Hi Ivan,
Hope your travels are going well! You have some great pics! I came across your blog because I am looking for info on how to get into Georgia. I'm thinking about seeing the Caucasus region this summer. Do you have any idea if its possible to take the Batumi-Sochi ferry (or reverse) if you're a non CIS citizen. I'll be traveling on my American passport ( the only one I've got :) ). Did you meet any foreigners on the ship?
All the best,
Elizabeth
Elizabeth,
I didn't meet any foreigners on the ship, but that's because it was hard to find about this option. Drop me an email and I'll see what I can find out for you.
Cheers,
Ivan
Hi Ivan,
I've found your blog by chance and I really enjoy it. That's very interesting. I'm planning to go to Georgia next summer and wonder if the Batumi-Sotchi ferry still works. How does it cost and how long does it take ?
Do I need a Russian visa ? I'm from EU.
Best regards,
Sebastien
Sebastian,
It costs around $100, is an overnight trip and will require a Russian Visa.
Ivan