Results tagged “Abkhazia”

I’m back in Zugdidi, I know there’s a marshrutka that crosses from Georgia into Abkhazia the following day at 14:00. Rather than show up unexpected, I decide to head there now to see what I can learn.

I show up to the address of the garage I was told about and ask the first two people I meet about the marshrutka to Abkhazia. Beso and Zaza (more on them later take me back to the stand for the marshrutka to Inguri to go over the bridge where I was just kicked out. Talk about frustrating!

I walk back to the garage where the marshrutka left from and walked around looking for some Abkhaz drivers. There’s a group of five of them. I approach them.

Me: Hello, I’m trying to get to Abkhazia.

Abkhaz 1: The marshrutka stand is over there (pointing to the Inguri marshrutka).

Me: They didn’t let me in, I’ve been told there’s a backdoor entrance (черный  вход).

Abkhaz 1: Yeah, you just missed it, come back tomorrow at 14:00.

Me: Will the driver take me? I have a Russian passport.

Abkhaz 1: Yeah of course.

Abkhaz 2: No way.

The five Abkhaz break off into a discussion in Abkhaz.

Abkhaz 1: It shouldn’t be a problem, in fact we can take you now.

Me: For how much?

Abkhaz 1: 5,000 Rubles and we’ll get you to Sokhumi.

Me: That’s too expensive for me, I heard the marshrutka tomorrow is 1,500 Rubles.

Abkhaz 1: Yeah, look, come back tomorrow and we’ll give a heads up to the driver, he should take you, if he doesn’t we will.

Me: Thanks guys.

Abkhaz 1: In fact, if you shave and cut your hair, you’ll look just like one of us, no problems.

Me: I’ll think about it, see you all tomorrow.

I rejoin Beso and Zaza who have decided to give me a tour of Zugdidi. While walking to a hotel, Beso invites me to stay with him.

Zaza and I

Left to Right: Myself, Beso and Beso’s sister and her husband.

See what’s wrong with this picture?

I return to the marshrutka stand the following day at 11:00 to find the five Abkhaz drivers at the same spot. When they see me, they all break out in smiles.

Abkhaz 1: Vanya, our Russian friend, we are so happy to see you. You’re going to Abkhazia, we’ve talked it over with the driver he’ll take you across and get you on a bus to Sokhumi. For you it’ll be 2,000 Rubles because there could be difficulties taking a Russian across.

The soldiers that stop every marshrutka are Russian, not Abkhaz, we’re pretty sure they’ll let you in, just in case, bring some vodka, cigarettes or some money to help them let you in.

Me: That’s awesome you guys are the best.

Abkhaz 1: You should stay with my family in Sokhumi, they know you’re coming and will happily let you stay for the night.

Me: That’s great. *I’m in a state of euphoria before reality sinks in* I’m going to be in Abkhazia without a stamp, how can I cross into Russia?

Abkhaz 1: Hmm, that’s a problem.

Abkhaz 2: Don’t worry about it, here’s what you do, get to the border town and then find yourself an Armenian. They’re always crossing the border illegally, they’ll take you via backdoor entrance into Russia, no problems.

Me: Do you know how much it’ll cost?

Abkhaz 2: It can’t be more than $150-$200.

Abkhaz 1: Vanya, I’m very worried, if you get arrested for illegally crossing the border into Abkhazia you might have to spend some time in prison, maybe it’s not worth the risk.

Me: You think that’s possible?

Abkhaz 1: It’s unlikely, but why risk it, it would cost the same for you to catch a ferry from Poti to Sochi and cross into Abkhazia from there (illegal according to Georgia which claims Abkhazia is Georgian territory).

Me: I think you’re right. *Reality sinks in, my heart sinks* Thanks guys.

Abkhaz 1: You’re a good person Vanya, I hope you get to see our country, it’s an amazing and the people are so friendly.

Me: I do too, goodbye my friends.

I would like to say that I took the rational approach and avoided the backdoor entrance because of the risk, but in honesty, it was because of the high price to cross into Russia that I avoided it (though I thought it might be much cheaper if I got as far as the border).

Having somehow stumbled onto Georgia's finest police officers, I walk past the police checkpoint. Behind the checkpoint lies an amazing sight, created as a result of the current political situation.

First though, a quick background to the war. In August 2008, war broke out first in South Ossetia and several days later in Abkhazia, two of Georgia's autonomous regions (the third being Adjaria on the border with Turkey) which have struggled with military actions and economic devastation by the Georgian government since the collapse of the Soviet Union.

The initial position of every major international media publication was that Russia declared war on, and invaded Georgia, annexing its territory and is exercising its might to punish Georgia for trying to join NATO, the European Union and for it's increasing ties to the United States of America. A knee jerk reaction based mostly on information gathered from Georgian sources.

An independent European Union fact finding mission investigating the war has since put out a report which can be summarised in two key points.

1. Georgia started the war by attacking peace keepers in Tskhinvali (the capital of South Ossetia), mobilising its army and attempting to retake the autonomous region by force. In response, Russia mobilised its troops and entered South Ossetia, in order to repel the Georgian offensive, to protect the 3000 peacekeepers they have in place since the last war in South Ossetia and to prevent the death of countless civilians from the Georgian military's constant attacks on the capital.
2. Russia reacted with disproportionate force, heading beyond the boundaries of Abkhazia and South Ossetia in order to destroy most of Georgia's military capabilities, including the sinking of most of its naval fleet in the Black Sea.

Shortly after the war, Russia recognised the independence of Abkhazia and South Ossetia shortly joined by Nigeria and then Venezuela. All other countries, including most of the European Union constituents and the USA recognise Abkhazia and South Ossetia as the territory of Georgia. Some food for thought, Kosovo declared independence from Serbia in 2008 and has since faced recognition from many countries (though most still recognise Kosovo as part of Serbia). It's interesting to note that the USA recognises Kosovo but not Abkhazia and South Ossetia, while Russia recognises Abkhazia and South Ossetia but not Kosovo, ah the fun of global politics.

Georgia maintains that Abkhazia and South Ossetia are part of its territory and as such no Georgian laws are violated when crossing in or out of the areas. Abkhazia and South Ossetia are working on rebuilding their countries after the war and as such freely allow Abkhaz, Russians and Ossetians into the country. This creates an interesting situation where Abkhaz are able to cross freely between the two countries (or regions if you prefer) without facing any taxes. This allows them to act as intermediaries between Russia and Georgia (who have mutual trade embargoes).

While I was there, I witnessed a lot of people crossing the border in both directions. Most of the people were Abkhaz, some were Mingrel and I'm not sure if there were any Georgians making the trip. Each person crossing had a goods with them that they would take to the other country, effectively nullifying the Georgia/Russia trade embargo.

As I walk beyond the police checkpoint, I see a lot of horse drawn carts taking people (along with their goods) across the bridge into and out of Abkhazia. There are a couple of cars parked and one of the drivers offers to drive me to Sokhumi (the capital of Abkhazia), I decide against it, opting to first check out the situation and if I deem it safe, to walk across.

The bridge itself lies 200m beyond the checkpoint (and out of its sight), I walk towards it and notice a camouflaged bunker with Georgian soldiers along with the monument of a pistol just before the bridge, pointed at Abkhazia.

I decide to not stop and chat, walk past the soldiers, another 50m to where I was told to stop and return from...

The bridge at Inguri, the border crossing over the XX river, between Georgia and Abkhazia.

I don't hesitate for a second as I continue onto the bridge, expecting the entire time to hear a shout from Georgian soldiers to return. When I'm far enough along the bridge that I'm sure the Georgian soldiers wouldn't dare to enter, I snap of photo of the Abkhazian side.

The Republic of Abkhazia (as seen from the bridge at Inguri).

Feeling bolder still, I decide to shoot a video (stealthily) as I cross the bridge.

One of the many horse and carts crossing the bridge.

While crossing the bridge, I once again check that I have both passports with me, put away my Georgian Laris and take out my Russian Rubles. I reach the other end and prepare for the final hurdle, convincing Abkhaz soldiers to let me across. I start chatting with some of the people on the other side of the bridge just before the the checkpoint while I calm my nerves, they are all incredibly friendly and wish me luck, telling me Abkhazia is a beautiful place.

I arrive at the Abkhaz military checkpoint and am told by soldiers to go through to see the commanding officer. I walk to the ranking soldier, a very serious looking Abkhaz soldier.

Soldier: Passport. (the conversation takes place in Russian)

Me: *Handing over my Russian passport* here.

Soldier: Where is your invitation?

Me: Russian citizens don't need a visa to enter Abkhazia.

Soldier: What are you doing here?

Me: *Sh!t, I should have organised with one of the people on my marshrutka to cross the border with them as their guest. No time for that, time to improvise* Travelling.

Soldier: Get out of my sight?

Me: Why?

Soldier: This is not an official border crossing, in fact it doesn't exist, we aren't here and neither were you. *Returns passport*

I'm shattered, such a simple oversight in my preparation  prevents me from crossing into Abkhazia. I walk away, returning to the people I'd chatted with before. They see that I've been turned back and am no longer in cheery spirits.

Waiting Abkhaz: They didn't let you in?

Me: Nope, said they wanted an invitation.

Waiting Abkhaz: Two options, you can return to the soldier and tell him that you have an invitation to join me, I'll go there shortly, or alternatively, offer the man some money. How much would you be willing to pay to cross.

Me: $100 USD (a figure big enough to get anyone interested in helping).

Waiting Abkhaz: That should get you across, good luck.

I take a deep breath, turn around and head back to the same soldier.

Soldier: What do you want?

Me: I have an invitation.

Soldier: F*ck your invitation, get out of here.

Me: Maybe we can come to some sort of an agreement? *hinting at a bribe*

Soldier: We won't be reaching any agreements. In fact, if you don't get out of Abkhazia in the next fifteen seconds, I'll arrest you myself.

Me: Come on friend, *I contemplate offering the money again but think he'll probably just take it and tell me to go away*.

Soldier: I'm not your friend, your time is running out.

I give up, defeated.

I turn back towards the bridge, find the group of waiting Abkhaz and tell them that my adventures in Abkhazia have ended before they've started.

Waiting Abkhaz: He didn't go for it?

Me: No.

Waiting Abkhaz: So what are you going to do?

Me: I have no real choice, I have to go back.

Waiting Abkhaz: *discusses with the other people around him* Here are your options. You can wait here until they change shifts and try your luck again. You can head back along the bridge and pay one of the drivers to take you across, they might not even check the car. You could try again tomorrow... or, you could go in though the black entrance.

Me: There's a black entrance?

Waiting Abkhaz: There's one marshrutka every day from Zugdidi. It avoids this bridge and instead goes across the river a little downstream. I normally take it across when I cross, or you could pay a "guide" to walk across the river with you.

Me: Tell me about this marshrutka.

Waiting Abkhaz: Ok, because you're such a nice guy. Head down to the XX garage in Zugdidi tomorrow at 2pm, there's only one per day and it should cost 1,500 Rubles.

Me: Thanks.

I stand there, contemplating trying to pay a driver to take me across the bridge, or waiting until the shift change but decide against it for two reasons. One, if I'm caught by the soldier, I could be in some serious trouble. Two, if I take too long and am forced back to the Georgian police checkpoint, I could face problems there.

I decide to head back to Zugdidi and try the marshrutka the following day. I walk back across the bridge, stopping to chat with another one of the passengers from my marshrutka, he confirms the details of the black entrance for me and wishes me luck, saying I should mention his name if there are difficulties.

As I walk across, a petrol tanker drives past and stops to offer me a lift back across the bridge. I hop in and we drive across, past the bunker of soldiers and to the Georgian police checkpoint where I get out, walk to the police and have a quick chat with them so they know that I have made my way back and not gone across the bridge like they warned me.

The driver tells me he's selling Russian petrol from Abkhazia in Georgia and makes several trips a day, but won't take me across because he doesn't want to risk the money earner. He drops me off just outside Zugdidi.

I decide to see if I can find more information about the 2pm marshrutka to Abkhazia.

I couldn’t cross into Russia from Georgia at Kazbegi (the border was closed three years ago and it seemed far too risky to cross in the mountains for fear of soldiers and mines.

My other options were to cross into South Ossetia or Abkhazia, or a ferry service to Ukraine and from there to Russia.  I’d always been fascinated about the 2008 South Ossetia war and initially planned to cross at South Ossetia however decided against it after passing a military checkpoint and hearing from locals that it’s not too safe for foreigners.

This left me with crossing into Abkhazia. I knew the most dangerous region was the Kodori Gorge, not too far from Svaneti and so decided to not head that way. I’d heard that the main highway linking Kutaisi to Sokhumi was closed at the border between the regions and thus my best bet was to head to the last major town on the Georgian side, Zugdidi and find a way from there to Abkhazia.

I arrive in Zugdidi and am faced with a daunting task, working out where I can cross the border from. There’s a heavy military and police presence in Zugdidi, and large displays of Georgian pride in the form of flags, including the following in the centre:

I apply discretion and decide against asking locals where to cross and instead hop onto the internet to find a map of the region. I find a town right on the border with Abkhazia, with a bridge heading into the region, not too far from the railroad and decide that I will try from there.

Next task, getting some Roubles, which isn’t that difficult given how many currency exchanging offices there are in the town, further reinforcing that I’ve come to the right place.

I find a marshrutka stand and ask people how to get to Inguri. I get a few strange looks but am pointed in the right direction.

I can’t believe my luck, the marshrutka takes us right to the border, everyone on board is heading to Abkhazia. I get out of the marshrutka and notice a Georgian police checkpoint, but the men inside aren’t paying much attention so I decide to not bother them and walk very hastily in the direction beyond the checkpoint where several passengers have gone before me.

“STOP!” I ignore the direction. “Hey you, come here!”. My pulse quickens, I’ve been spotted by the police and they’re waving me over, time to play it cool. I gather my thoughts, check quickly to make sure that my Australian passport is separate from my Russian passport, which is out of sight and casually walk over to the police.

Me: Gamar Joba (Georgian for hello), how can I help you? (in English)

Policeman: What are you doing here?

Me: I heard there was a war here last year, I wanted to see the border.

Policeman: Are you a reporter?

Me: Do I look like a reporter? I’m just a traveller, reporters dress much better than me.

Policeman: Hmm, ok, show me your passport.

Me: *hand over Australian Passport*

Policeman: *thoroughly inspects every page* (I presume he’s looking for an Abkhazian visa).

Policeman: Ok *looks at the photo page*, wait. Ivan Alexandrovich?

Me: Yeah?

Policeman: Is that a patronymic? – All Russians have a patronymic (in Russian Otchistvo), their fathers name with a different ending. I’m Ivan Alexandrovich, my sisters are Daria and Elizabeth Alexandrovna.

Me: Yes. *getting slightly nervous, I’m starting to think he suspects that I’m Russian*

Policeman: Born in Moscow?

Me: Yeah, but I was too young to remember it, we left to Australia a LONG time ago.

Policeman: ты говориш по Русски (Russian for do you speak Russian)?

Me: чуть чуть (a little) – I reply trying extra hard to make sure my Russian accent sounds incredibly bad.

Policeman: Are you going to Abkhazia? *Here it comes*

Me: No, it’s too dangerous. I just want to see it, is it ok to take a photo of it? *Why is he not telling me to go away, or asking for my Russian passport or arresting me?*

Policeman: You’re sure you’re not a reporter? – At this point he’s joined by a few more policemen, one who offers me some grapes while eyeing me suspiciously.

Me: No, have a look through my dirty unwashed clothes if you want, I’m just  a traveller.

Policeman: Ok, you can go through as far as the bridge, but don’t you dare to set foot on the bridge and do not point your camera in the direction of our soldiers, only at Abkhazia. – He records all my passport details in the notebook, I note that in the past two weeks only a couple of foreigners have been recorded, perhaps they’re part of some Human Rights organisation or reporters with permission. After recording my details, the policeman returns me my passport.

I thank the man and casually walk towards the bridge and Abkhazia, maintaining my cool the whole time, despite the nerves.

Having left Gori behind us, we first visit a church, Ateni Sioni followed by an ancient cave city Uplistsikhe.

Next, the St. George Chitakhevi Monastery (aka. Green Monastery).

From there, we stop along the way to Sapara Monastery for more photos of autumn.

After Sapara, it’s next to a women’s nunnery, Saro Monastery.

Next, the cave city of Vardzia where I befriend a group on a school excursion.

From Vardzia to Ubisa…

… and on to Bagrati Cathedral, which is under heavy reconstruction work…

… and finally to Gelati Monastery which easily ranks as one of my favourite places in all of Georgia.

After the visit to Gelati, it’s time for me to leave Koba and Jean as they head to Mtskheta while I go on to try and enter Abkhazia.